Koloman

Koloman Moser is hardly a household name, though I’m informed by Wikipedia he was one of the foremost artists of the Viennese Secession. Against all odds, he’s also the namesake for a self-described “contemporary French” restaurant in a modern, self-consciously hip hotel in Midtown Manhattan. Things start to cohere a little when we learn that the chef is Markus Glockner, an Austrian whose previous New York restaurant, Bâtard, received a Michelin star for its precise European cuisine. And indeed, the interior design makes at least a surface level nod to the Viennese secession, most notably with a striking clock-themed bar at the entrance. I have more time to admire my surroundings than I would like because, despite my reservation, I need to wait quite a while to be seated. When I finally am, I presumably look so weary and hungry that I am given a whole four-person booth on the side of the restaurant all by myself. All that waiting has given me a chance to study the menu: the vegetarian choices are limited, but sufficient for a dinner; I order one of each.

Warm gougères with mountain cheese and shallots inside ($15) arrive first, with a horseradish cream on the side that, given my aversion to horseradish, I ignore. These are everything a gougère should be: warm, airy, cheese-y, perfectly browned and elevated by the tangy shallots with red wine inside. I have to pace myself not to devour all three before the first course; this is clearly a snack meant to be shared. A simple classic, but very well executed. (7+/10)

My first a la carte selection is a celery root tartare served with a light rice-based crisp ($22). This is a technically complex affair: the celery root is salt baked, ground like minced meat, marinated in a tomato reduction, and seasoned like a classic tartare with mustard, gherkins, and tarragon. A little parmesan on top adds richness. The crisp is well-suited to scoop up bits of tartare and adds texture, but little flavour. Yet despite all this technical effort, the flavour falls a little flat: there is an impressive amount of umami for an almost vegan dish, but the mustard and tomato are a little too pronounced and leave little of the celery flavour itself to be discovered. (7-/10)

Next, I’ve selected an asparagus soup with fava tapenade and preserved lemon. The presentation here is simple and traditional, but the beautiful green color and smooth texture of the soup look very promising. The first spoonful confirms this promise: extremely flavourful and high-quality green asparagus has been turned into a soup that is luxuriously smooth and silky, but never feels heavy, even after eating the entire (generous) portion. The fava tapenade and preserved lemon add a little bit of texture and another layer of fresh, spring-time, and zesty flavours. The weather might not have caught up yet, but at Koloman, spring has already arrived in full force. Simple and superb. (8-/10)

The rutabaga tortellini in vegetable consommé with morel mushrooms then remove any last doubts that despite the casual, hip hotel atmosphere, Koloman’s cooking is at the highest level, both technically and in terms of ingredients. The ravioli are expertly made and filled with a smooth puree that manages to extract more flavour from rutabaga than I had thought possible. The vegetable consomme is astonishingly complex and adds both layers of earthy vegetable flavour and a warm generosity to the tortellini. The morels and vegetables create variations in texture and flavour, having soaked up and melded with the consomme in varying ways. Perfection. (10/10)

At this point, I’m happy, full, and getting tired; my server’s shift is already over and she introduces me to her colleague, who will take care of me from now on. It would be a good time for me to leave too, but given the quality of the food, skipping dessert is not an option. I choose an apple strudel, a simple dish that I have had countless times in South Tyrol. This is perhaps not the most exciting choice, but few desserts provide greater emotional comfort. Koloman’s version does not disappoint: the strudel is probably the best I’ve had, with light and crisp dough, and a filling that perfectly balances sweetness, acidity, and a light crunch of the apples. Hazelnuts inside are not necessarily traditional, but work well. The buttermilk ice cream, light and tangy, is a welcome alternative to the traditional cream or vanilla custard. Traditional, safe flavours, but exactly what I was hoping for right now. Innovation doesn’t always trump tradition. (7/10)

In a place like Manhattan, always in search of the hot new thing, Koloman’s food is almost revolutionary in its total adherence to traditional techniques and flavour profiles. In Europe, food like this would almost necessarily be paired with formal service and a hushed atmosphere, but the relaxed, buzzy atmosphere of Koloman’s dining room means that all of this technical precision doesn’t come across as showmanship, but simply as a means to an end: delicious food. And delicious it was, every single element of every single course. I do wish for more vegetarian options, but on the other hand, who wouldn’t trade choice for quality?